Day 155 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: L’Ile D’Orleans, Ice Climbing and Ice Canoes in Quebec

We stood and watched this young man scramble up the side of the “sugar loaf” at the Montmorency Falls five or six times before he made it to the top.

Ice Climbers

Many Quebecois are very active during the winter. These people were out at 8:00 am on a Saturday morning to enjoy the warmer weather.

This was a steep climb. We talked to some men who were going to climb this part but said that it was too vertical for them.

This observation bridge was busy both times we visited the Falls. It would probably be just packed in the summer months.

Ready to Climb

These ice climbers are from Mont Tremblant, but they came to climb at the Falls for the first time.

Ice Canoe Race across the St. Lawrence from Quebec City to Levis

We were lucky enough to catch the ice canoe races. Had we caught the earlier ferry from Quebec City to Levis, we would have driven off without even knowing that they were on! This competition was called the Grand Defi Des Glaces (Big Ice Challenge), and this was its 14th year running.

We asked organizers if the approaching cargo ship would be held back to wait for the canoe race to finish. “No, they train to deal with the ships passing by them, they’re used to it.”

Quebec City was a stunning backdrop for the ice canoe races.

The mens teams had to cross the St. Lawrence five times.

Onlookers of the race.

Pushing Over Chunks of Ice

Three races were going on at once. The men’s elite, the women’s elite and the sport races.

You would have to be in impeccable shape to participate in this sport.

With so many canoes racing at once, there were a number of collisions and near misses.

The races were very intense and exciting to watch.

This is a strategic sport…teams have to figure out the best way to get across.

Paddling on the Open Water

The Notre-Dame-de-Bonsecours Roman Catholic church in L’Islet Sur Mer was built in 1768.

A naval boat is perched on the banks of the St. Lawrence River at the Musée Maritime du Québec in L’Islet.

Manoir Vincelotte Campground and Cabin Rentals Office

400 year old mill. We spotted this round building beside a bunch a run down cabins and stopped to ask how old it was. In Quebec you never know what misplaced or forgotten piece of history you will come across.

Quebec leads Canada in dairy production, with an amazing 10266 dairy farms! This is 38% of the milk produced in Canada. The countryside is dotted with scenes like this one.

Day 153 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: La Malbaie, Saint Hilarion and Saint Urbain, Quebec

La Malbaie is a municipality in the Charlevoix-East Regional Country Municipality.  It is situated on the north shore of the Saint Lawrence River, at the mouth of the Malbaie River.

The name La Malbaie, from the French for “bad bay”, was given to this region by Champlain, when low tide left his ships high and dry in the bay. For a time, the village was named Murray Bay, after British governor James Murray.  The development of tourism in this area is said to date back to 1760, when the Scottish seigneurs John Nairne and Malcolm Fraser began receiving visitors to the region at their manor.

We have seen a number of crosses on hills in Quebec. This cross in La Malbaie really stood out and was visible from many places in town.

It was a nice sunny day in La Malbaie to take the dogs for a walk. This area would be just gorgeous during the summer months.

A region long known for its hospitality and a beautiful landscape, Charlevoix is the perfect marriage of nature and culture. To cater to growing popularity, the original Le Manoir Richelieu hotel was built in 1899 and featured 250 rooms atop the cliff of Point-au-Pic, overlooking the majestic St. Lawrence River. Unfortunately, disaster struck in the fall of 1928 while the employees were closing the hotel for the winter. A fire completely destroyed the propert. A month after the disaster, the task of rebuilding the hotel was given to Canadian architect John Archibald, who designed it in the style of a French castle. The new hotel was inaugurated in June 1929.

The Front of the Manoir Richelieu

Details of the Inside of the Manoir Richelieu

Even in the off season, the hotel was bustling with people.

The Church in St. Hilarion – I liked that the little angels were holding light bulbs to illuminate Jesus at night.

The town of St. Hilarion is a little hilly town near the Laurentians, like many of the small Quebec towns that we encountered on this trip.

Baie St. Paul is situated on the delta of the Gouffre River. It is known for its art galleries, shops and restaurants. Baie Saint Paul is where the Cirque du Soleil originated back in the early 1980’s and the location of the first show “La Fete Foraine de Baie Saint Paul” was there in 1984.

One of the Cute Houses in Saint Urbain

Richard Legault has been living in his yurt for over two years, and he has been fabricating yurts and teepees for nine years. He has invented the Witente (a hybrid of the teepee and yurt) and they are becoming a very popular option for people interested in affordable housing. The recession has not hurt his business whatsoever. In fact, he says that it has helped as many are interested in getting away from huge mortgages and debt. For more information on his products, visit www.witentes.com.

The Yurt Ceiling Lets a Nice Light Into the Space

Richard’s own design, a cross between a teepee and a yurt.

Snow Shoes in Quebec are called “Raquettes”

This is one of three dog sleds that came ripping around a corner, we had to quickly hit the snow bank to dodge being run over.

Day 151 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: La Baie to Saint Simeon, Quebec

If you’re Canadian you must see and experience Quebec, it is truly a special place with a distinctive culture. We are very lucky to speak French, because maybe 1 in 7 people speaks English in rural Quebec.

Shadow Play

Quebec is full of personal shrines large and small to Mary and Jesus. Some shrines are in the oddest spots, the enclosed Mary on the left was fastened to a power pole, and the shine on the right was on the side of the road. 1000’s of shines and displays add to the old country feeling to Quebec, and reminds us of its strong Catholic heritage.

Cross By the Side of the Road Near the Town Riviere D’Eternite

This oldtimer was in pretty good shape for his age. Six months of shoveling snow off of his fifty-foot long driveway might have something to do with it. Snow and snow removal is a huge part of the Quebec landscape and lifestyle during the winter months. By the end of winter people have dug little trails with five foot high snow walls from their car to the front door. Snowfall in western Canada doesn’t compare to what Quebec has to deal with, no question. Blizzards are also common place in Quebec, and for the most part, the Quebecois deal with it in strides. Snow is in their blood, with many Quebecois owning snow blowers, skidoos, skis, skates and snowshoes. I personally think they look forward to it each year.

We asked this man to stand in front of the pile of snow in front of his house. In Quebec they move some of the snow, and the rest they just pile up as high as they can. I sure hope these homes have good drainage and weeping tile.  

Quebec in the winter is like being in a giant deep – freeze. Tremendous chunks of ice from the St. Lawrence Seaway were stranded as the tide went out. Another buried stop sign. Last year in Quebec they had a lot more snow than this year. I’ll bet that many of the signs were covered completely. 

Following the 1996 flood, a group of citizens built this reflecting pyramid conceived by artist Jean-Jules Soucy and composed of aluminum yield signs. We were surprised to come upon this cool modern art piece in amongst the quaint houses by the Bay. 

Michel Harvey had his own mini lighthouse on the shoreline of  the river Saguenay.

Chimney fires are common in rural Quebec due to the sheer number of wood-burning stoves.

The Solace of Ice Fishing

Due to the harsh winter weather on the St. Lawrence River, the Saint Simeon ferry to Riviere du Loup is shut down until April.

A fake lighthouse acts as a tourist attraction in St. Simeon.

This container ship was moving along at quite the pace, heading to unload in a Montreal port.

We had been in this same spot in St. Simeon, just five days earlier and this stretch of the St. Lawrence river was packed with massive chunks of ice.

Today however, the river was clear and inviting, and we felt like we were on the west coast, complete with a fine sandy beach.

Detail of a Beached Ice Chunk

It always surprises us how people can thoughtlessly throw around their trash in such beautiful country.

A lone lighthouse stands guard on the St. Lawrence Seaway.

Day 148 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: Chicoutimi Carnaval and St. Fulgence, Quebec

Sleigh Rides at Chicoutimi Carnaval

Looks like fun!

Vintage Snowmobile Races – The skidoos had to be at least 30 years old to race!  

Working at the Carnaval

Happy Couple Enjoying the Chicoutimi Carnaval 

There are so many Habs fans all over the place! 

Impromptu Hockey Game

This little farm (in a horse trailer) cost a dollar to visit. We didn’t pay since we have our two dogs around, and they are almost the same as having a little farm (but in the van). We are actually thinking of selling pony rides with Bo as the pony. 

Kids Quad Ride 

The Quebec Military had a tent at the Carnaval. 

“Le Gros Party” in the Chalet du Pere Alex. 

There were slices of “tarte au sucre” (sugar pie) for sale, and it was all I could do to resist a piece. So sweet, yet sooo delicious! 

There was line dancing and French songs…he even played the accordion! 

Wagon Wheel of History

Day 143 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: Quebec, Une Belle Ville

Quebec Flag of the Day

The cutest bus ever! These electric buses are free to ride around downtown Quebec city.

A 150 years together!

Maggie the horse sports a Fleur-de-Lys.

A Silent Canon on a Wintery Day

In Quebec you will see thousands of these temporary car ports, sheltering cars and saving hours of shoveling time.

The second major snowfall in a week has caused some people to lose it. This lady was out of her mind and very very mad about having to shovel more snow.

Historic Quebec City Post Office

National Museum of Fine Art of Quebec

In Quebec, people of all ages are active all year long.

Faces of the Day – Deux Quebecoises

Tobacco Shop

Tourist Shop

‘Tis the season

Skiing her heart out!

Parka Party in the Park!

Canadian Coast Guard

Canadian Coast Guard Yard

Heading home after a day of playing hockey.

Day 138 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: Quebec City

With 20 centimeters of snow on the way for tomorrow, I thought that this icy Canadian flag with tire tracks over it summed up the time of the year here in Quebec city.

With Quebec city built on a hilltop there are so many great views to capture.

Pretty much every government building in Quebec city consist of massive slabs of concrete with small windows. Quebec seems to have a love affair with concrete. I wonder if it’s to do with the need to feel a sense of permanence and stability after a rocky start for the French with so much conflict and fighting.

There are certainly way more Quebec flags flown here in Quebec city than Canadian flags.

The taxi drivers say business is good for them in QC.

This is what comes off of the roads….I found this under a bridge. Quebec loves to use huge amounts of salt on the roads; no gravel out here in the East… just straight salt!

Blind and brave! In Quebec city motorists will actually slow down for you if you’re crossing the street. In Montreal, on the other hand, they speed up for you.

Proud to be Canadian! This woman made this toque for her son’s ski team.

Somebody has too much time on their hands during their lunch hour.

Just two days ago this was the site of Carnaval where 1000’s of people laughed and had a great time. Today it’s back to being a frozen wasteland.

The Hotel Frontenac has got to be one of the most stunning of the Fairmount hotels from across Canada with its castle-like architecture.

This has to be the most amazing sled run I’ve ever seen. You get going really fast as the whole run is made of ice. The kids really scream on this one and with reason.

Two ferries crossing in the night.

Tug Boat in Icy Waters

Grocery Store in Downtown Quebec city

Day 137 of a 365-Day Portrait of Canada: A Walk Through the Streets Quebec City

What makes being here in the winter months of Quebec city so great is that there are no tourists. Everyone you meet lives and works here, which makes for a much more authentic portrait of Quebec and the Quebecois. I am finding a major languagebarrier as I do not speak much French and 1 in 5 Quebec city residents speak limited English. All of which is definitely holding my conversations back needless to say, it took me 20 minutes to find someone who could direct me to a post office. Quebec city really does have a European flare to it with just the craziest collection of old buildings and narrow, rough streets. I even saw an old woman walking down the middle of the street with a loaf of fresh bread under her arm.

Boy running freely down sidewalk; oh to be young and know nothing about the economy.

Butcher Shop

Old buildings make up the majority of Quebec City.

Not a straight line to be found in this shot, everything is twisted and sagging.

Wow, these doorways didn’t seem very Quebec to me, they seem very western.

Everywhere you look Quebec city is full of textures and an old country feel.

Proud Resident of Quebec City

Oh my!